Visit to the vineyard Altesino

Many people can’t say the word Montalcino without thinking of Brunello. This little medieval town in South Tuscany is today closely connected with production of Brunello di Montalcino, which is considered to be one of Italy’s best red wines. Brunello di Montalcino was “invented” in the 1870s by Ferrucio Biondi-Santi, a local nobleman who wanted to make a new and different wine. The traditional Tuscan wine was at that point in history a refreshing sparkling affair which had to be drunk the same year as it was produced. But Ferrucio, who was a lover of French wine, wanted to make a heavier wine, which had to spend time stored in wooden casks to be able to enjoy a long life afterwards. He most certainly achieved his aim: Some of the first bottles from the 1880s can be still be drunk and enjoyed today!

That type of Brunello is however no longer produced. Although the wine is still produced 100% from the grape sangiovese grosso, and although it is still stored in wooden casks (2-5 years depending on type, year and style of production), the majority of the wine must be drunk within 10-15 years of the harvest and the majority can even be enjoyed shortly after their release.

For many decades Brunello remained an Italian secret, unknown beyond the country’s borders. The international public did not realise the amazing quality of this wine until a few decades ago. Up until then only a handful of farms produced the wine and it was not until the 1970s and 1980s that producers of this wine type started to increase seriously in number.

Today around 200 farms produce Brunello di Montalcino, and 141 of these bottle the wine themselves. Some of the farms have only one or two hectares while the largest has 150 hectares. Brunello has become expensive and sought after now that it has been discovered by the world’s wine lovers and you no longer find a good bottle in the shops for under 20 euros – even in Italy. If we ignore the special offers in the supermarkets, you can be sure that a cheap Brunello is a bad Brunello! Many wine experts claim that there are no more than max. 40-50 producers producing Brunello who are worthy of the wine’s price and reputation Others will maybe say that there are more, but regardless of how you do your sums, Altesino is one of the best.

Palazzo Altesi, which dates back to the start of the 16th century, was bought in the 1960s by a businessman from Milan as a summer residence. He soon began to make wine and anything else would have been a pity when you consider the great potential of the vineyards. In addition to Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino, the farm also makes cabernet sauvignon, merlot and trebbiano. On the 27 hectares of vineyards the farm produces 9 types of wine, a vinsanto, grappa and brandy.

Under the management of the talented Pietro Rivella, Altesino has managed over the past decade to become one of the best farms around Montalcino with serious international distinction. Most recently the influential Wine Spectator chose Italy’s 50 most exciting wines and Altesino’s single vineyard Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli was ranked number two following the Piedmontese Gajas priceless wines. This wine was also given 98 points out of a maximum of 100 by the same magazine for its 1997 vintage, which has since been called one of the best vintages ever. But alas one of these bottles will set you back up to 200 euros in Italy so all sensible people should choose a 1999 bottle, which is also wonderful but only costs around 50 euros.

In addition to the fine wine, we should mention the beauty of the place. Altseino stands proud on a hill in the northern part of the Brunello area and the wine is stored in picturesque old buildings, not in modern factories or high tech buildings as is the case elsewhere.

To visit Altesino you have to telephone 0577 / 806208 and arrange a time in advance. Invaluable for Scandinavian tourists is the fact that a Danish girl is employed to welcome guests! You can also buy wine, grappa, brandy and olive oil direct from the farm at favourable prices.

Directions:
Driving from Siena towards Montalcino you have to turn right shortly after Buonconvento on the road to Montalcino. (If you miss the turning and continue you will get to San Quirico, Montepulciano and finally Rome.) After a few kilometres on a winding country road you turn left and drive 3-4 kilometres on an unmade road. The whole journey is signed to Palazzo Altesi.