The fine little medieval town of Suvereto lies in the Maremma area of southern Tuscany. The name comes from sughero, which in Italian means cork oak, and on arriving in the town you realise why.
Among the typically Tuscan vineyards and olive groves surrounding the town, beautiful cork oaks are found in the wooded areas. They look their very best when they have just been ”cut” and their valuable bark removed. The bare part of the trunk has a warm dark brown colour, whilst the rest of the tree has a matt green colour similar to olive trees. Suvereto is not far from the sea, and although the area feels very rural the locals consider themselves coastal people and focus more on the coast than on the lovely landscape surrounding them.
Suvereto is located in the Etruscan coastal area, but it is only possible to date the town with certainty back to the 11th century. The town’s golden age was not until the 13th century. In 1201 the town received its Charta Libertas and became an independent town state. One of the Maremma area’s most outstanding examples of medieval architecture, Il Palazzo Comunale, dates back to this time. The city walls of Suvereto still encircle the small town, and when you walk through one of the gates it is quite easy to imagine yourself back in time. The centuries have virtually passed without trace, and many of the buildings are now undergoing renovation making them appear as if they have been built in recent years.
There is no doubt that Suvereto is worth a visit – and your trip will be even more enjoyable if you happen to pass through at lunch or dinner time to try the culinary delights of the renowned restaurant Ombrone in the middle of the town centre.
Ristorante Enoliteca Ombrone.
In the middle of the centre of Suvereto you find Paris; this is what it says in a newspaper article hanging on the wall in the restaurant – and it is not altogether wrong. The owner of Restaurant Ombrone, who serves the guests himself, is a well-known figure within wine and olive oil circles, both in and outside Italy. And this is more than apparent when you see him pouring the wine, or checking the trolley filled with all possible kinds of olive oil. His wife looks after the kitchen and cooks the wonderful food herself. The dishes usually have their origin in traditional Italian cuisine, but the way they are prepared and arranged is totally French. Everything is very delicate and delicious and the presentation is exquisite, but the portions are French, so expect to order a couple of dishes in order to satisfy your appetite Italian style.
When you have tried the different delicacies do not leave without having coffee. There is a whole coffee menu to tempt you - but the best is the sugar selection; it has been collected from all over the world and is simply enormous.