A couple of years ago, also in the autumn holiday, to Lucca, where we got served sun, heat, good coffee, and atmosphere.
We hoped for a repetition in new surroundings, but were a little disappointingly met with rain and 13 degrees at the airport. The disappointment faded around Porta Nuova, when we saw Citta Alta peep through the rainy fog. There the mood rose a bit, and we got the feeling that "now the adventure starts". The whole trip from Østerbro to B&B went frictionless. Nothing else than the flight was planned, and yet everything else still fit almost perfectly. The Italians still needs to give us a bad travelling experience. Now its been going so well for so long that we statically a nearing a disaster, or they've exported that sort of thing to Denmark, hidden aboard a Ansaldo Breda train.
We were received and shown an apartment in the ground floor where we could stay for 2 nights, whereas after we were moved up to our ordered 3 beds room.
It was nice with a whole apartment, men in return the weather was just turned into autumn, so the apartment was pretty cold. Should we return in the summer, we would definitely go after the apartment, which has an exit to the garden. The 3 beds room, which we later got, was perfect for our needs. Nice, clean and well functioning.
Breakfast had a bit of it all, from yogurt and fruit to bread and cheese. The coffee was... ermm... special.
Bergamo probably functions a lot like of fortified cities of old. Like Lucca.
Its an attraction for tourists, and a place to "hit the city" for anyone over 30.
You can see with advantage, if you even to use a 3 day travel card, when you live where everyone goes to watch the attractions and you should take at least a couple of walks up and down Citta Bassa and San Vigilio.
We rode with the cableway a couple of times to try it, but otherwise walked around.
If you go down to Citta Bassa, then the trip through Porta San Giacomo an obvious choice, since its both nice and leads you to the better shopping part of town.
It takes no more than 15 minutes downhill.
Citta Alta is incredible.
If you look up on it from below it looks majestic, and if you look down from above, it looks picturesque.
When you walk around in it, you're time travelling, and you look over the walls and it's just too good to be true.
Bergamo must be the reference city for these sort of cities.
But with the changing weather, the view over the city changed each day.
From one funicular to the other, there is an uptake to an innocent expressed, Venetian death route of tourists. Of course it wasn't as bad, at least not in October, and actually only in the weekend, but like everything else, its there where the stores and restaurants lie.
In return tourists are tourists, so if you like in Venice, walk down a side street, you're almost completely alone. There you can look at the city and explore the past. When you then again need a glass of wine, food or coffee, then its back to the main street.
Normally I appreciate the more filthier, bigger cities, but Bergamo is so much of its own, that even the pretty look of it bounces off. It shall at least get a better look at another time.
The booking via In-Italy was, as before, well-functioning and we were well informed.
Entro Le Mura was a nice and central place at a good price.
And then also a hand to the locale gardener, who I've never seen on such a well-groomed grass, in such an impassable place. It was funny enough not too much, it just worked, but still odd to hear the sound of a lawnmower on such a steep mountainside. Where even a mountain climber would be stumped to go. Those you do meet though, if you walk of the scenic route to San Vigilio.
Recommendations for future guests
Of those we tried we can recommend:
- Al Donizetti on VIa Gombito 17, good food and really good wine. www.donizetti.it
- Il Circolino Vicolo Sant'Agata 19, an informal and big restaurant divided into multiple rooms.
The Restaunrant is a part of a cooperative, which functions as a sort of community centre.
Where you can take care of the locals need for entertainment, activities and contact.
The staff is volunteers and the restaurant is targeted towards the locals, nicely informal and fine food.
- We never tried: La Tana, Via San Lorenzo 25, even though it served cooked donkey with all the local polenta.
We flew down to Malpensa and home from Orio Al serio.
Took a bus (Orio Shuttle) just outside terminal 2 in Malpensa to Bergamo (was dropped off at the trainstation). You bought the ticket from the chauffeur . 18 euros per person. The journey was around 2 hours.
Then we walked for 10-15 minutes straight down Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII (It changes name underway and leads straight to the cableway). Drop around 1 euro into the machine, stamp the ticket when the wagon comes and enjoy the trip. It is short.
The walk from the end station in Citta Alta to B&B takes around 10-15 min.
And since we had to go home 06:35 Sunday morning, we had the tourist information (which is 3 mins walk from the B&B) to order a cab that also arrived on time. We were at the airport 1,5 hours before take-off which fit exactly with the flight. Maybe a bit too precise.